We are on our way to Kumbhalgarh, after finishing the Ranakpur Jain temple but in a haste. We had spent way too much time reaching Ranakpur almost at dusk. We crisscrossed the hilly region of Aravali and were to stay at Ranakpur as the hotel address read.
Magnanimous Fort
Eight hundred-year-old legacies and the peace is Ethereal
Ranakpur is a small town famous for its 800 years old Jain temples. Saints and Jain disciples all across the world take a stop and reside here for meditating and seeking blessings, but not me. I was here to see the architectural marvel and the traveler in me always inspires me to go slow and hence we had booked accommodation in between Kumbhalgarh and Ranakpur.
My Observation though is that majority of tourists do a one-day trip to visit all these places, keeping Udaipur as the base. But as quoted above, I wanted to do it at leisure, experience the Aravalis, and see all the hidden gems in its deep valleys.
Travel Blunder
As we reached our hotel we were told it’s based in Kumbhalgarh and not in Ranakpur. With the horrifying look, for the blunder that we had made of miss reading the location, we had to hurry to see the Jain temples in semi-darkness, which was not at all satisfactory. What troubled me more was my driver Kamal Singh, who frowned and cribbed to drive us 40 km to Kumbhalgarh. The road he said wasn’t safe with Ghats having serpentine twists and turns.
With no option left and after a lot of argument, we proceeded for Kumbhalgarh in the pitch dark of the night. The atmosphere was tense and, the only sound was off the driver which seemed frightful, probably due to the situation as he continued chatting.
The Mighty Aravali and BHIL stories
The road with dark surroundings of thick forest cover, serpentine roads, and the mesmerizing BHIL stories made us wait for the climax. This fearless tribe of the Aravalis known to ransack the travelers, the driver a local, was at his best at storytelling.
Gripping the edge of our seats, counting every moment and kilometer we did have a nail-biting finish and perhaps the most interesting drive from Ranakpur to Kumbhalgarh.
As we see lights almost after 38 km, we heave a sigh of relief and keep driving to find our earlier misread accommodation.
A Bond like destination( 007)
After a twist and a hairpin turn, we see this beautiful sight, a valley amidst the Aravali which you catch a glimpse of, only when you enter the valley. From pitch dark unending roads with no Civilization, we land in a Bond movie location, with numerous hotels perched, on every peak of the Aravali Mountain, each decorated with colorful fairy lights, but in India in our very own Rajasthan in Kumbhalgarh.
Kumbhalgarh
Kumbhalgarh is a small village located within the vicinity of two km from the fort. Perhaps it surged only after the fort gained a huge tourist reputation. Finally, the ecstasy knew no bounds as we settled in our accommodation and looked forward to visiting the mighty Kumbhalgarh Fort.
With a mountain wall at the back and surrounded by thick forestation on the other two sides, our hotel complimented my vision of experiencing the Aravalis. Kumbhalgarh in daylight is eagerly awaited.
It’s a clear wintry morning with sun peeking out from behind the Aravali ranges. The trees are devoid of leaves at the onset of spring, the peaks and mountains have trees in brown and white bark with all foliage on the ground making the otherwise green Aravali look naked.
But the site is beautiful, the sleepy town of Kumbhalgarh with modest amenities is ready to welcome all its tourists with the first rays of the sun.
Set to visit the mighty Kumbhalgarh Fort with a jungle safari Jeep ferrying us from a point to the first gate, from one of the seven also called the pol (the arched gate).
Architectural Marvel
As the fort comes into sight this mega structure keeps you glued. The first look is rustic, this strong bastion of a fortress is unseen and hidden in the Aravali. They make a natural guard to the Fort. As far as the reach of your eyesight, you can see the mighty fort wall as long as 36 km, built in the 15th century.
Safari vehicle drops me at the entry point of the fortress known as the Hanuman Pol, as I get down and check my surrounding I understand it is going to be quite a Trek.
Thank god I was in proper footwear, as I see the younger generation with fashionable footwear struggling on the cobbled street and the older generation giving up before even it began.
A word of caution: The Trek to the Kumbhalgarh Fort up to the top is not so easy. It is good to begin early morning, some water, dry snacks, and proper footwear are your main essentials.
The entry from the pol Gate into the walled fortress has Temple complexes. Some 360 temples, each superlatively beautiful than the other, accessible to the common subjects of the state. Thoughtful isn’t that.
The entry gate
One of the watch towers
The unbeaten FORT KUMBHALGARH
Temples belong to multi-religion and the majority are Jain, with few belonging to the Hindu deities. All were built by the very courageous Mewar King Rana Kumbha. A Shiva disciple who walked down often from the top of the fort to worship here. The Shiva temple also called the Neelkanth temple has a black marble Shivling and is worshipped even today.
Various edifices in the vicinity of the fort
As you stand in the strong pillar Temple looking at the surroundings and you feel proud for the kings who built this fortress, the safe house is hidden, which prevailed undefeated
During the reigns of most of the kings of the ruling dynasty of Mewar except for once with deceit.
This Fort built over fifteen years is Invincible unless you approach the first gate. Concealed securely like a rustic gem in the fifteen peaks of Aravali.
Its strategic position atop a high ridge along with the stone color of the fortress camouflages it in the forest cover of Aravali widely known as Kumbalgarh wildlife sanctuary.
Leaving the cobbled streets aside, I walk the thick boundary wall, to overlook the layout and see the architect MANDAN and the King’s super plan. The cobbled street with the highs and lows and the sharp turns are sure shot speed control.
Deterring the intruders this 15 M high and 4.5 thick walls, 1100 m above sea level is double storied. The ground and the first. Peeking inside I could see the lamp holders and the lamp hinges. The width of the wall can carry two-horse carriages parallel. Every few meters we find steps to ascend throughout the length.
Seven massive gateways and ramps to cut the animal’s speed trying to scale up the cobbled walkways. One of the many reasons for enemies to not reach the top.
Plural architecture
With multiple watchtowers, small and large edifices, residential quarters for the royal and the supporting staff, drinking water management, the ammunition hosting quarter… Describing each might bore the reader and not much would be left to be seen.
I too switched off the shutter to store this bastion of a fortress, the birthplace of Maha Rana Pratap, the beautiful Aravalis from the top of Badal Mahal, the long fortified wall as far as could see, The heroics of Panna Dai, the valor of Rana Kumbha, The majestic and courageous Maha Rana Pratap as my trek came to an end.
I rested taking in the Kumbhalgarh fort and memorizing and storing as much as I could in my hard disk.
The Bird’s eye View
The Helicopter whirred ferrying the tourist for a top view. I am sure it must be beautiful from up there, from the skies, but as I rested for a few breaths, I am overwhelmed and glad I trekked to the top to see this wonder of a heritage of my country. The fort and the battles and the kings hardly find a mention in our schooling book.
I strongly believe if this is taught in the growing years of schooling, we might make a sea change in the thought process of generations coming up. We as a system are in a dire need to change our perspective of what we imbibe focus on our heritage more and come out of the agony of destruction by the Mughals and the rule by the British. The value, regard, and respect given to our countrymen and legacy is the booster we require.
The Bird’s eye view
A sight to behold
I am grateful, I am humbled on seeing the architectural historical marvel and bow down to my courageous thoughtful countrymen who could create this. Visiting the ruins of many Jain and Hindu temples… the trek though tiring leaves you satiated with multiple emotions I want more I couldn’t leave didn’t feel complete.
Watch in the background
The warm Glow… Sun and the lights
I looked forward to visiting it in the evening for the spectacle that eagerly awaited. Due to the pandemic, the light and sound show @ the Kumbhalgarh fort is on hold but the fort is lit every day between 6:00 pm to 6:15 pm and the magnanimity of the fort in the yellow glow of the lighting leaves you speechless. The beauty is spell bounding and you are deeply touched which casts an everlasting spell on you.
Delight to the sight
