Desert in the Heaven – The Nubra Valley

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Today we are on our way to “NUBRA”. Covered in woolens with camphor pouches strung around our necks we Load our vehicle with Oxygen Cylinders and most important a pen drive with songs. We are to cover 124 Km to reach the valley.

Leaving leh behind, we face these  huge Mountains with winding roads to reach the top. It seemed like Onion rings , peeling each ring as we cross one.

We are a small dot amidst the towering mountains, streams, rhythmically flowing rivers and the deep valley.

Gripped to our seats, drinking in the beauty and concentrating on every thought as we peer down, deep down, once again I understand how precious life is and how important it is to live in every moment.

Breathe in Breathe out

Trusting stenzing’s driving skills on the narrow rustic roads the only prayers are THANK YOU, GOD. As we encounter our first snowfall we are out of the vehicle on the road dancing.

Away from the whole world but very happy. Snowflakes feel like a fairy dropping feathers from heaven. As close as it can get to a fairy tale coming to reality. The air is so pure and pristine that urbanites find it unbelievable.

A break for CHAI, noodles & Momos

Keeping ourselves hydrated and with many photos stops we reach the world’s highest motor able road. THE KHARDUNGLA PASS.

At a height of 17,582 Ft, this is the highest motor able road. The pass connects Leh to the Shyok and Nubra valley which  is closed from October to May. With a welcome break for Chai, Noodles and MOMOs these at that time are the most delicious food ever.

Surrounded by Ice capped mountains, layers of thick ice  on the ground made it difficult for us to walk. On one side was a wall of ice and on the other a valley.

The Ice melting into small streams flowing across the road, vehicles strode slowly and cautiously.  Amidst the white blanket of nature, I could see many colored dots each being thankful that they could make it possible.

Journey onward

A few Km into the journey the landscape changes its costume, it’s now into warmer colors of brown and barren without a dot of green. As we cross the border check post there in the small hut I sit down to have my Butter tea with the seller who is the only one out there serving the travelers. Listening to his story of everyday travel to arrange the essentials and earn his livelihood I feel both humbled and grateful.

As is climbing  khardungla treacherous so is coming down. The terrain calls for patience and endurance. Small distance but long travels can be a trigger to one’s patience, but it’s the best time to spend with oneself.

Cruising along we come across a small settlement on the banks of river shyok. Deep down in the valley, we see the natives working the fields of wheat, barley and peas. Tending to the fruit orchards of blood apples, apricots and walnuts. The variety  very suitable and  grown as per the climatic conditions of the terrain.

Valley of Flowers

Inching Closer to NUBRA. The valley with an average altitude of 10,000 feet formed by the Nubra, Shyok and  the Siachen River separates Laddakh from the Karakorum.  The original Tibetan name being “LDUMRA” meaning Valley of Flowers.

Every settlement you reach you feel you have reached your destination. Diskit the main town with almost everything available here for the people of the valley hosts the DISKIT Monastery and  the Maitreya Buddha statue standing tall with bright colors and intricate painting at a height of 32 Meters. The Day was high on Excitement as preparations for DALAI LAMAS visit were on.

Reaching HUNDER*****THE DESERT IN HEAVEN

Late afternoon we reached HUNDER our destination. Wooden cottages with modest amenities set at the foot of the mountain and a  stream flowing down right through the resort was the highlight.

The sound of water and the origin of the stream next to our cottage made us explore the resort which made us stay outdoors for a lot more time. Being summertime Ice was melting and  crystal clear water flowing from the top surrounded by wild grass and colorful flowers on the ground was enchanting

Called the “the desert in the Heaven” we went exploring HUNDER. You wonder about seeing yourself taking the center stage on the sand dunes and with a backdrop of Barren Mountains, the river on one side and  Ice capped mountains on the other.

CAMEL RIDE

As I walked on the sand dunes with sand slipping from my toes, seeing the heavily furred Bactrian Camels do their rounds of the tourists in the cold desert  I breathe in the beauty around.

The Bactrian Camels are short and  have a thick Skin and  fur to endure the climate. Their eyes speak a lot. The Camel owners take very good care to keep them fit and healthy. Seeing one of the camel shelters while exploring HUNDER I had an opportunity to see the Camel stable, the arrangements made for them to feed, clean and  house.

The Owner also spoke about the camels being family, but as the valley closes down in the winters it is difficult for humans & livestock. In six months they have to earn & stock for a year.

As the Magic Unfolds

As the dusk falls on the valley the clear blue-grey sky lightens up with strings of white tiny bulbs. As the magic unfolds above us lying on our backs seeing the sky illuminate with thousands of stars is pure Magic.

We were the only ones left behind and  didn’t want to go back, Stenzing worried came in search, to find out that we were having the most Divine experience.

At the resort, as we sat around the campfire with logs crackling, each one eager to share the experience of the day of Pure joy, satisfaction, Gratitude.

My thoughts

God as a creator has intricately created this universe. To understand his creation of “everything from nature to nature” is enough for a creature to survive. To understand his creation is to understand ourselves. We need to set our foot out. Staying in the Comfort zone stops us from doing new things, to evolve is to Travel.

THE LAST LEG

Stenzing our Humsafar could feel from our talks and  beings that traveling for 7 hours was  worth a while and  each one was ready for the next.Leaving only the footprints & taking all memories.

Bidding goodbyes are always difficult. So was ours, But Pangong Tso lake our next destination was awaiting us. With a heavy heart, a bag full of memories and a Camera full of clicks, like a small child when missing his favorite toy keeps looking, I too kept turning around, telling myself that I will be back but not knowing when.

Varsha Mahore

12 thoughts on “Desert in the Heaven – The Nubra Valley

  1. मैं बिना वहां गए ही घूम लिया ।excellent write up ….जैसा लेखक वैसी लेखनी

  2. Ma’am,
    You made me walk down the memory lane. I relived all those precious moments again. Traveling with friends is altogether a different experience.
    Thank you for this piece of text.

  3. Varsha while reading your experience I was remembering my experience, it was the same as you have mentioned in your blog about Nubra valley

  4. A beautifully crafted blog! It was a virtual tour you took me through. All the best Ma’am.
    May success be yours.

  5. Very detailed info…felt that we were on the tour…awesomely explained each and every bit of a tour….enjoyed reading and looking at the pictures….💐💐👍

  6. Yes Varsha, Nubra Valley is indeed majestic. Flowers and suddenly camels in desert of Hunder! Your beautifully written travolouge took me back in time for our trip in these places!!
    Keep up your writings!!

  7. Beautifully penned. Ma’am You brought the nature live in front of my eyes.Without going there I was there.
    Enjoyed reading it so much .

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