For the Love of Chole Kulche – Amritsar

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Amritsar Gurudwara

From the time l had tasted Chole Kulche l fell in love & after that, I tried them at various places but all zeroed down telling me about the Amritsari CHOLE KULCHA..!

A trip……with religion & History

The Urge was so intense that in OCTOBER 2016 we 15 of us THE GANG were on a trip to Amritsar. With a power-packed itinerary for 2 days with all that had to be done The Golden temple, The Wagah border, Jalianwala Baug, Maharaja Ranjit Singh Museum, and the food.

GROUP Travel

As l was on a group trip, settling down was a bit of a challenge. At this juncture, l realized we want to travel but need the same comfort as our home, so we still aren’t out with an open mind. We also get myriad suggestions with Dos & don’ts.  On day one we had an open itinerary what l did was followed my heart, along with a few from the gang.

The growl in the stomach told me to venture out to find what l had come for. We took a ride on a colorfully decorated rickshaw & told “Amrinder “to take us to a pre-researched famous place. He on the other hand asked us if he could take us to a Dhaba on Taran taran road, in his local Punjabi dialect he described the layered & stuffed Kulche & chole in the most enticing way which made our mouth water.

Foodie Experience

For the Love of Chole Kulche

Taking his suggestion we reached this small Dhaba but it was crowded being lunchtime. A word of caution here, October travel in some parts of India Can be tough due to severe heat l would also suggest avoiding Public holidays.

As we waited for our turn standing there getting restless l could see the man behind the Tandoor & the synchrony in each of the 4 team members while making the Kulchas. The kulcha originated in the Indian Subcontinent in the 12th century it is a flatbread in multiple layers with butter & various stuffing of Potato, Paneer, Cauliflower, Onion. The Hot tandoor was glowing with red flames with the men in a mechanized way & pit-pat sound of the hands made these white flatbreads. Lost in the process & waiting eagerly with taste buds tingling seeing the Red Onions, Radish & happy faces around I could hear my stomach.

l heard someone call “madamji aapko konsa khana hai ” & their l was served with the paneer kulcha with butter, chole, raw onions, chili & a glass full of Lassi. As my first bite melted in my mouth it gave me a divine feeling of satiation. Tasting each one of them the flavors were very authentic belonging to the region, the quantity was more than you can imagine & the love they were cooked with, made it all the more delicious, with a glance from our driver asking a nonverbal question, we gave him a high-five for bringing us at the Dhaba.

Sightseeing Continues

Early morning the next day at the Golden temple with throngs of devotees with “SatNaam Wahe Guru & “Bole So Nihal, Sat Sri Akal” we were engulfed with the devotional fervor. From the heritage walkway to the temple the street is lined up with shops of colorful knickknacks like the kaddas & turbans.

The temple premises are huge paved with marble it has a lake to take a holy dip. The lake water is very clean & pious, systematic from the minute you walk, and we find sevak helping out. Here everyone is equal, each one wants to lend a hand, covering my head as l entered the inner sanctum peace descended, with few quiet moments I stood there frozen to understand the power the place holds.

Jalinwala baugh

My heart full of gratitude it was time to move on, we went to the Jalianwala Baugh, the site is now right in the heart of the city but as we enter the history unfolds. A feeling of anger takes over & you feel for the barbarian act the suffering my countrymen had to go through.

A must-visit for every Indian to understand the sacrifices made by our people to enjoy the freedom of today. With a heavy heart, deep respect & a wow to contribute towards my country, I am indeed happy I could see & feel the historical place.

We leave in search of a very well-known place for Chole Kulche. You can never get enough of them. After lunch at Prava ka Dhaba, we were on our way to the Wagah border.

Love for my country takes center stage

Patriotism at its peak Wagh Border Crowded Wagh Border

Lowering of flags also called the “Beating Retreat “One of the main attractions of the trip. The place was thronged with tourists and we had a tough time getting through. With all the patriotism in us & remembering some of our history lessons from the school days with high Spirits we sprang into the crowd. Our spirits were dampened due to mismanagement. Word of caution as mentioned earlier avoid public holidays, check reservation, be well in advance at the venue, Carry water & dry food.

Everything didn’t go right that day we returned without watching the retreat & feeling sad. Through the loads of traffic we were on our way back to Amritsar but from ATARI village.

Much to Learn…

Atari station being the last station before the border crossing holds important significance. The road was lined up with fields of wheat each donning a different shade of green. Dusk falling on the horizon the locals having a lazy evening, children playing in fields, THE GANG was in their thoughts forlorn.

There are good & bad days you learn from every trip. We did visit the museum & the local places to savor the Sarso Ka Saag & Makke di roti. Amritsar is a foodie’s paradise, with Mithai {Sweets) from Bansals we bid goodbye to Amritsar.

The trip endorsed few things travel only with like-minded people or go solo. Be ready to accept changes as they are not in your control.

As l think travel is not a reward for working but education for living.

Varsha Mahore

19 thoughts on “For the Love of Chole Kulche – Amritsar

  1. Beautifully narrated the travel experience! Panner kulcha chole lassi makkedi roti sarsoda saga my mouth started watering and the divine experience of visiting Vahe guru’s golden temple, Waghaborder, Atari village. Keep travelling .

  2. Hello Ma’am !
    Congratulations on your blog!!! I started off with your write-up on Amritsari Chhole- Kulche; and could identify very well with what you have expressed. Those tiny dhabas are an integral part of a holiday in North India ; and I daresay, they serve better stuff than what our pricey five star restaurants do.
    Thanks for rekindling my own memories of my trips to the North Indian hill-stations during the 80’s and 90’s!
    I look forward to reading about your experience in Australia, too.

  3. Dear Varsha ma’am,
    It was indeed a great experience to read your blog. I feel like I am almost there and the Culcha you were tasting I feel that taste here. Stuffed with Paneer, potato cauliflower।…. Omg.
    Thank you for sharing

  4. Awesome. The experiences shared here imposes one to visit & explore our own culture and the historic moments…it is to feel INDIA..
    Thank you Ma’am, for sharing your wonderful and dynamic experiences in such beautiful words.

  5. Amritsari Chole Kulche. I Being a foodie felt the vibe for a food lover in the blog. Along with good literary. Enjoyed the entire journey through the blog a lot . Keep up the good work.

  6. All the places are …Must visit
    Had been to this trip in May 2005. Golden Temple is such a Divine place. Marble work is so beautiful. Jalianwala baug and Wagha border are the places where we really feel very proud and heart is full of gratitude.
    Liked the last line…travel is truly an education for living…

  7. It is very inspiring blog. I had also tested Chole Kulche. It’s very delicious. Given information of Amritsar Golden temple, wagha border & delicious food is very useful & guideline for new comer.thanks

  8. Loved the food and the history, not forgetting the page turning event of Jallianwala. You have a way of pulling heart strings.

  9. Nicely observed and written maam, feel like I am travelling and experiencing the same… nice activity ..I like the name of blog ‘one way ticket ‘😊

  10. Beautifully narrated. Your experiences shared took me down memory lane… Make me relive my experiences in Amritsar and the north. Worth going back again and again!!!

  11. Hello ma’am,
    What a lovely way of describing your travel experience! The description of the chola kulchas makes me want to go there and eat one right away. I thoroughly enjoyed reading your blog ❤️

  12. Panner kulcha chole lassi makkedi roti sarsoda saag everything is mouth watering and the great experience of visiting Vahe guru’s golden temple, Waghaborder, Atari village. Origin of kulcha, recalling jaliyanvala baug experience making me visit the place and have one kulcha. Enjoyed reading keep travelling and sharing.

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