Alleppey_The Stormy stay at the backwaters

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Dark clouds followed, threatening to pour anytime. It’s humid and hot. I thought we had left the cyclone behind, it doesn’t seem so.

It fails to dampen our spirits though ending in giving us some hair-raising moments. As we enter Alleppey, also known as ALAPPUZHA, we see the expanse of the Backwaters covered with colorful fishing and houseboats.

THRIL on Road and water

Reaching the backwaters was super thrilling. A narrow road, with a canal on one, and homes on another side. We held our breath by leaving the driving to the expertise of our driver.

The driver deposits us on a small bridge, the hurricane of a family is in double minds which way to go scared of the cyclone.

The honking of a water taxi, screeching of the car tire and the pounding of the rains left me standing drenched on the bridge wondering which way to go.

Standing there lost for few moments welcoming the huge droplets, I see the Car Turning around, wondering as to how did he? There is no space.  I knew we have to go the houseboat way.

At the same time, the taxi makes its stops for a min and moves on to its onward journey ferrying the passengers of all ages, the action is swift as it is a day-to-day affair.

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Boarding the SWAN

In knee-deep water, we board our houseboat, the owner soothing and reassuring us about the better weather over a hot cup of Kerala coffee.

Settled we watched the skies and the horizon from the deck, my first experience of everything. I could see the backwaters spread with umpteen Coconut trees and many houseboats ready to begin cruising.

In about 45min the skies are clear with streaming rays through the partially clear skies, hinting me about my Glorious time ahead.

We are accompanied by four families to the luxurious house on the water. Equipped with all amenities, freshly cooked food, and all that you ask.

Relaxing on the deck, watching other houseboats pass by, amidst the network of many canals, life is as normal as its outside. The inhabitants have made good of the tourism. While you are on the water, the pit stop for refreshments, massage, and fresh coconut are hugely available and highly recommended.

Amazed the personal transport here is a canoe every member and chore of the day is carried on by a quick zip zap of the canoe.

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Kerala Water Transport-Water Taxi

The students in uniform are off to school, just like taking a bus they board the water taxi. The Kerala water transport ride, the honk says it all, for them, it seems to be very normal, I wonder how? We panic and protect the child forbidding them from many life skills, and I am sure all these children surely must be knowing to Swim.

Whiling my time watching activities from the deck, we dock at the small shanty to have some refreshment. Inquisitive I cross the natural boundary formed by the coconut trees, to something so beautiful, wonderful, nature’s miracle of rich green and yellow paddy rice fields.

Humans can make life happen anywhere

I look back and forth one side is the backwater, just beside the narrow strip are the paddy fields and the moment was of just getting lost and bowing down to nature.

Back on the boat, we were served with the most delectable dinner prepared in-house with the Fresh Catch, raw spices and the local brew called the TODDY”.

As the quiet night descends on the horizon and in our boat, to our surprise the boatmen park the boat and tie it to a wooden plank, handed us the remote, and announced that he is leaving for the day.

A night out with the boatmen

Jaw dropped, oh why is that! How are we to be here alone? Nonchalantly he points out to his house just across the boat. To my surprise and delight, he asked us if we wish to visit. We jumped on the offer, and there that night, sitting under the stars after his dinner and we with a glass of Rassam unfolds his life on the backwaters.

Born and brought up here, childhood he said was fun. Adapting to skills amidst nature, of nature, and for the community. Learning the Community way. The school was fun crossing over on the other side of the Canal.

Saw the many beautiful and difficult side of Nature and the Ocean. Life was simple but tough but they knew the survival skills. He learned the art here and can’t think outside the backwaters. His children to are following in his footsteps.

Today he owns the Houseboat and stays on this small village patch adjacent to which is his little paradise of a land.

First time in my years I did smell little fire, I quickly came back and focused on his family which was sitting around listening intently. That night is my most memorable time spent, I thanked my stars to decide to go ahead with the houseboat, and a glance at him told me he too was saying the same.

We don’t know the time when we returned to our cabins on the houseboat, but sleep eluded on that night and I lay there listening to the lapping waves, the cicadas dance on the tune of their rhythm.

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The Snake Boat

As the horizon is painted with dawn and beautiful shades of the sunrises it’s surreal. The air is crisp and it’s an enchanting moment. It’s time to return to the shores and the boatmen point out the practicing snake boats. The annual snake boat race is called the “vallamkalli”.

OH amidst the shouts of Jor Laga ke haiyya, I thought so as I didn’t understand the language, but concluded the boats being maneuvered in total harmony by these chiseled body-built men. The synchrony of rowing with the counts is precision undeterred. You are scared to blink, as to not miss a moment of this mesmerizing game and their expertise.

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Satiated to the Fullest

Back that day and on to my onward journey, I strongly recommend the experiences on the backwaters. You can explore it any which way suiting budget and time, multiple ways are available.

# Explore by an overnight stay on the Houseboat.

#Hire a motorboat and cruise along.

# take a Kerala public transport ride spending and observing the locals and surrounding.

# Stay around in the many homestays amidst nature and serenity. They offer rides too.

Kerala for me was exploring many fast-changing landscapes
  • The Hills
  • The valleys
  • The ocean
  •  The Backwaters
  • The old history along with age-old plantation
  • The tea Gardens.

The Survival Instincts

As I think about him and his family today, I pray that his paradise of land has given him a good paddy crop. The Houseboats are all halted, the wait to have the annual boat race is long and the Industry is in the most challenging situation. What seemed normal, zooming in and around with tourists thronging in, the honks are unheard. The waters are quiet. All my prayers for the times to return and the backwaters to buzz with laughter and aahas, and ohh, and wow beautiful sounds.

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Varsha Mahore

2 thoughts on “Alleppey_The Stormy stay at the backwaters

  1. Thanks for the blog and the writeup as well. Thanks for the detailed post. I would like to see this place.

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