Siddhpur Accidental Visit to the “Ghost Town”

Siddhpur in Patan district of Gujrat, happened accidentally, and it was a wonderful accident. While on our Gujrat road trip, we are on our way to Patan. Our Amdavadi driver, who otherwise is non-vocal persuades us to spare an hour or so to visit this place. Giving in to the local knowledge of the driver and, the travelers FOMO we drive into Siddhpur.

Known as the “GHOST TOWN” it wore a deserted look, situated on the banks of River Saraswati. Siddhpur is around 103Km from Ahmedabad. Now that we are here, we try to make the most. We alight at the temple located at the river Ghats, Unaware of the surprise we were in for.

The Ghats tell the untold story

On the Ghats, we could see people deep into rituals, not one or two but many, curiosity piques. We enquire about the Occasion, and as I write my travelogue about Siddhpur, I am overwhelmed and thanked our non-vocal Amdavadi for being vocal at the right time.

Siddhpur got its name from the great ruler of Gujrat from the Solanki Dynasty around the 10th century. A major commercial hub the place was at the zenith of glory and opulence in that Era.

Blessed with all 

The Pundit with his generations settled here divulges what he knows about Siddhpur, and how this is his ancestral home. “Shristhal” that’s the name for Siddhpur found in the Vedas. This revered pious place Known as “MATRU GAYA” is blessed with one of the five holy lakes the “Bindu Sarovar”.Lord Parshurama had offered prayers for his Mother when she presided to the Heavenly Abode. Performed at the Kapilmuni ashram with three sacred Kundas around the Gyan Vapika, Alpa Sarovar, and Bindu Sarovar it’s an emotional place and that’s how pious.

Memoir to, too many 

 Listening to the pundit and seeing the people deep into rituals my heart is engulfed in sadness, the reality is in front of me but I do not want to be here any time soon and the urge to be with my parents is strong I understand the term ” GHOST TOWN”.

Seeing our forlorn faces the pundit realizes, though revered for its piousness, thinking of mothers has made us sad, he quickly takes over the role of a storyteller and asks us to follow him.

On the other Side

Maneuvering the streets of Siddhpur we are in a much crowded residential area and face to face to a cordoned-off structure. Awestruck we look at this huge temple, artistic, aesthetic standing tall in its full glory. 

Looking at the pundit and then at the temple turn by the turn, he could see the joy on our faces and heaves a sigh of relief, ALAS! He could make the visitors feel better. NO! We are ecstatic.

 “RUDRA MAHALAYA”

We are standing in front of the “RUDRA MAHALAYA” this gigantic structure built in the 12th century AD, by Raja Siddhraj, with three-storied shikharas almost touching the sky with 1600 pillars, 12 entrances, huge central Mandapa takes us back to the history of the temple and the reel plays like a movie where I can imagine, the hustle-bustle in the temple, the deity being worshipped and decorated with marigold flowers and the fragrance of essences sticks, and the Chant of “OM NAMO SHIVAY” 

The deity in the west and open spaces on East, North, and South the main temple is surrounded by eleven Rudra shrines. The pillars are heavily carved as is the Toran adorning the eastern Gate, with steps leading to the river Saraswati, these are the only remains today. Built-in the yellow stone, you are at loss to understand the dynamics of the remains.

Again loss of heritage takes over and we dig into the history of its destruction dating back to 1298-99 AD very soon after being made, further deteriorating in the 15th century under the rules of Mughal.  

The pundit is flabbergasted by our questions and hands us over to Zahera. A travel enthusiast and a student of Travel and tourism with the historian at home in her father. As we are warmly welcomed in a BOHRI home, fully carpeted at a sit-down get-together on a hot cup of tea and some more tourists. Many stories, Facts, and tales unfold. 

‘Bohra Vad’

Zahera welcomes tourists all around the world and is a guide for siddhpur, her homemade food is famous and is pre-booked by tourists who visit here. She and her family are the few Bohri families, who still reside here and takes us on a tour of the BOHRA VAD.

A close Knit affluent community, who contributed to the opulence and development of Siddhpur. These are the ancestral homes of the Dawoodi Bohras, a prosperous trading community now spread all over the world. The business-oriented community with its opulence some 100 years back fascinated by the European style architecture and lifestyle build Havelis and Mansions here back home.

In Paris via Gujrat

We enter into alleys of lookalike Mansions, with ornately decorated pillars and intricately carved facades. The Colors used some hundred years back resemble the western world, but are as fresh as yesterday. We go from one Haveli to another and are fascinated as it feels like we are walking in Paris.

Zahera chatted animatedly about the glory of Siddhpur located in the Najjampura area, of Siddhpur and I steal a long moment breaking off from the group to have a close look. These are made with a fusion of wood, brick, and cement painted in pastel shades of salmon pink, peach, and greens, the pillars on which they stand decorated in Dull gold gives them look palatial, the crowning roofs, the façade, and the balustrade gives adding to their Italian gothic look.

Ancestral heritage

Most of them are deserted today, as the owners have moved on for better prospects, the lanes of Najjampura hosting the Bohravad, are beautiful giving a feel of walking as in by lanes of Paris.

 I wasn’t lucky enough to walk inside one of these Havelis and hence give in to the visual tour narrated by Zahera, They are huge as they stretch from one lane to another in breadth and are multistoried. Divided into guests and living quarters with heavily carpeted floors and are well-furnished in ornamented furniture.

The rubble in the street narrates a story of these century-old mansions that have sustained generations are now giving up on the changing climatic conditions. 

Now taken care of by caretakers or close relatives the hospitability of this warm community is seen as they welcome visitors every day. This ancestral heritage built by generations is a major tourist attraction today.

Today though Siddhpur is revered as pious, historically rich with heritage, and as “Ghost Town” I wonder how it would have been when Bohravad 100 years back, was in action when Chic Bohoris strolled in the alleys replicating the styles from Europe. I am sure they must have felt Proud and surely made a mark amongst the community which they strived for.

Time well spent

My Amdavadi driver had now spent way too long than an hour waiting for us, along with all infotainment I had the most delicious moment relishing BOHRI Biryani served by zahera. Melting on my palette every spice could be savored and I understand why she too is famous in Siddhpur. 

An offbeat and off-track destination while traveling to Patan and Modera, Siddhpur comes as a pleasant surprise, Known as the “Kashi” of the west, holds many other reasons to visit. My accidental detour was a great and pleasant surprise.

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