Maheshwar – Empowered in the true Sense

MALWA…The land of black volcanic soil. This region of Madhya Pradesh is known for its rich culture, great history, heritage, and my personal favorite KUMAR GANDHARV, the prominent classical singer. INDORE known as MINI Bombay and the Jyotirlinga in UJJAIN …add a feather in the Cap of Malwa.

 The Good Old Charm

Let me put it differently. I was fortunate enough to spend around two years back in 1992 in a town adjacent to Indore some 30kms away called Devas. Often traveling to Indore, we enjoyed the beautiful CHHATRIS, RAJWADA, Aaina Mahal, and the most revered CHHAPAN DUKAN (KHAU GALLI)

Back then too, travel was very much part of my identity, and traveling on two-wheelers to explore around was a favorite pass time!

 The Malwa delicacies

I had got hooked to MAWA Batti, Poha, Bhutte  ka Kiss, Dal Batti and all the paraphernalia that came along with it.

Friends Fun and Frolic

‘HAATS’ (Local Bazar) were common in those days. It was time for women to get together and spend some me-time with friends. Sitting in groups to clean the veggies and Gossip on a hot cup of chai and mathri was the other pastime. As temperature in the region are extreme and the best time to travel is winters.

Two years flew by in a zippy exploring, while much remained unexplored. My connection to Malwa was always very strong. When a road trip was proposed adding an extra day to the weekend, we set on the most memorable trip through the interiors of Malwa.

Road tripping 

Maheshwar set on the banks of Narmada has its old-time Charm. With a strong connection to Lord Shiva many temples are dedicated to this creator and destroyer. Well connected by road, it is around 91km from Indore, and easily accessible. I was traveling from Nasik so we went till DHAMNOD and took the turn for Maheshwar which took us around 8hrs.

Narmada My first Rendezvous

Getting up to the sunrise on the banks of Narmada you are overwhelmed for many reasons. Narmada the lifeline of central India pulls you emotionally. She is vast, most revered and flows around 3000km across many states.

Her Banks are culturally, religiously, historically rich with fertile land around. With a calm morning, the Ghats adorned with colorful boats watching her elegantly flow, temple bells ringing, and the fortress in the backdrop it’s a moment to live for. A moment of pride for the Queen and a moment to understand Empowerment.  I am at Maheshwar. The  working Capital of Devi  Ahilya Bai  Holkar.

Engulfed In pride 

Maheshwar is to be visited for the architectural marvel of 18^th Century “Ahilya Fort” temples as old as 5000 yrs., Ghats, Chhatris, and textile.

This 250-year-old fort now converted into a heritage hotel, keeping a part of the Queen’s residential quarters open to visitors. It’s a walk through simplicity personified in the iron lady with a golden heart.

The place has an AURA. Spending some quiet moments and flipping through the memorabilia you get to know about her immense work her progressive thoughts and her attachment to her countrymen.

Salute to the Progressive Parents

She was an empowered woman. She went on to create history and left a legacy in many cities, Maheshwar in specific. This Gem was selected when she was eight years old by her late father-in-law to be the bride for his son. The Senior Holkar recognized the Girl’s grit and preciousness.

Ahilya bai lost her husband and in keeping with the tradition, had to commit sati but her father In Law, prevented her from doing so and thus pulled her into the administration of the region.

 Dynamic Administrator

She on the other hand took over the affairs of the region after her father-in-law passed away and went on to safeguard her region fighting battles galore. Indore and Maheswar saw the development of roads, temples, and Ghats during her reign. Trade flourished and she supported the rise of merchants, farmers, and cultivators to levels of affluence and did not consider legitimate claim to their wealth, through taxes or feudal rights.

She made sure people were heard and solutions were given and implemented. Her reign was one of the golden era for the people of MALWA.

Standing today in front of her portrait clad in white Maheshwari Silk sari, the glow on her face from the frame resonated with what she did.

 RAJMATA AHILYA DEVI HOLKAR was a truly empowered woman, back then when formal education to girls was not allowed. She was educated by her father at home and went on to change the meaning of empowerment. I truly felt proud and at the same time humbled by the superficial talks about empowerment.

Empowered with history I am on my way to the Chatris and the temples. The Nagara style yellow stone Chatris are intricately carved depicting animal and human figurines from the mythology and a beautiful facade of pillars looking over the descending steps of the Ghats towards the Narmada takes you down the history lane.

Love for Maheshwari Saris

Maheshwar is also defined by Maheswari saris, earlier made only in silk for the royals today we find many varieties. The inspiration of the design drawn from the waves of the Narmada River, from the lamps, bricks, and the tikka.

The patterns on the borders define the uniqueness of a Maheshwari sari. The weavers also called the BUNKERS are majorly women. The dying art was timely revived and with 250 and more women  into weaving, the fabric is exquisite and intricately woven making saris, dupattas, and stoles.

Women Empowerment – Now and Then 

Again empowering the women to sustain themselves respectfully thus creating a space for them and curating an identity for each one. Every product sold flashes the Bunkers name, making it a proud moment and huge motivation to create and bettering the ART. We are blessed to have a simple but rich culture and art, and we need to contribute towards its sustainability by contributing with purchase.

Narmada Aarti

As the sun sets the Ghats start to get crowded for the Narmada Aarti, Bells vibrating, and you are drawn into the pious atmosphere as the numerous Diya’s float making their journey onward. Paying tribute to the truly empowering  Queen I drink in the moment. For me, Maheshwar is the epitome of history, hospitality, royalty, culture, textiles, and the legacy of “Devi Ahilya Bai Holkar”.

It’s a great destination for a short weekend break . Stay tuned to Varsha Mahore blogs. Enriching lives through travel .www.justonewayticket.in.