The Lake Aarti with Indo Japanese Hospitality at Khajuraho
The famous Ganga aarti at Varanasi attracts tourists from across the globe, but my moment is the aarti at the Shivsagar lake Khajuraho.
Set in the backdrop of a lake is the western group of temples. We reach Khajuraho in the bone-chilling winters of December. The lake and the hotel are blanketed in fog, we couldn’t see either.
Our itinerary along with all group of temples also this hotel, now an Indo-Japanese venture of a local is fortunately in Khajuraho his hometown for generations. How we landed here? To cut the long story short it was a sheer coincidence.
Scheduled for Hi-Tea at dusk, we meet the gentleman and lose track of time as history unravels about Khajuraho, his family, and him.
Khajuraho Clad in history – Life story of young boy
Growing up in this small village engulfed in history and bearing the proof of it, life as a whole was difficult. As a little boy at a tender age he had to fend for his family. Tea stalls and shacks have always been saviors. He started with a small restaurant for sparsely trickling tourists then, Khajuraho was hardly known.
A Japanese historian fond of the ruins and the architecture, who loved the food he cooked became a regular visitor. Thus began a journey over food. Journey of history, and entrepreneurship. The Japanese historian noticed the spark in the young boy, and her frequent visits to the restaurant, paved a path for learning.
She was intelligent and took the boy under her wings. With hardcore training of the young boy and a visit or two to Japan to learn the tricks of the trade and his fierce loyalty to the aging Japanese, landed him an adoption deal of him and the hotel.
Today a successful entrepreneur with multiple hotels in both countries, he is often back at this place where his roots belong and do what the lady did. Young men and women are trained, and offered Jobs at his various ventures…. I am again humbled, isn’t that giving back to society….What he got as luck by Chance he tries to rub that off in as many youngsters as he can to make a better future in this temple town.
As he stops talking we find ourselves gaping in the wonder at the grounded man we are talking to, a commotion nearby and Tara dressed smartly , asks us to accompany him to the lake and ….
Oh my god, locals and tourists have surrounded the lake. All carrying Diya’s, bells reverberate with the chant of mantras, and Mr. Girish is handed an aarti/oil lamp made in brass in multiple layers similar to the one in Varanasi, many others carrying a smaller replica of the layered Diya’s.
Standing mesmerized, we are part of the most beautiful happenings in Khajuraho … the whole ritual goes on for about twenty minutes ending with the lamps being immersed into the lake, making it a picturesque sight…. There we are dumbfounded by the dreamlike experience etched in my memory.
It’s all about touching Lives, simple things can change your perspective towards looking at certain things.
Shivsagar Lake a primary source of Khajuraho is clean and worshipped like the Ganges. What makes it vulnerable is its aarti and this gentleman had made it a ritual and the locals follow the age-old tradition. .
You need to lead from the front to instill, guide, and take charge. Learned a new way of worship….The Japanese Historian stands tall in the Frame with a smiling face which is Mr. Girish’s idol and as he turns back is the mini Ganga. This experience enriched me deeply many times I go back and revisit the experience from the photos and not to forget the big elephant my big brain. And do praise the ant brain who has successfully captured the moment and stored.
To read more about Khajuraho experience click here.
The Baiga and the Gond way
Deeply touched by the tribes of Madhya Pradesh in the hearts of the Kanha Reserve
Well if that sounds exciting this experience made me shed every drop of sweat till it was confirmed. But it made it for all the hard work spending the day with the tribes in their homes.
Made of mud, mostly square or rectangular, with low ceilings and foliage thatched or red locally made tiled roofs, these dwellings are picturesque and unique. Painted in blue or white with artistic drawings of the tribe’s traditions and culture they are beautiful, minimalistic but yet sufficing all the needs.
Uprooted from the Jungles when preservation of wildlife took center stage, the tribes were reinstated in and around the jungles. We sit down for lunch with the Tukumrai family and are served Kurti Dal, Kikad roti, bedra chutney, and Brahmkhass Chakri which makes the Gond thali. I have organic homegrown food, I understand what means from the yard to the plate.
The Gonds have adapted to some new ways and are better off with the crafts they make and many government initiatives and outlets do put them for sale throughout Madhya Pradesh. Women of both tribes are heavily tattooed and look beautiful in their attire.
To read more about Kanha Reserve click here
The Baigas …Prefer to stick to the roots
The Baigas are still very orthodox and live without electricity and speak the baigani language. The jungle stories unravel as lunch is on, and the pain they went through as they were uprooted. Their fierce love for the jungle and the animals with the killer instincts of hunting for survival it’s worth spending time with them. As it starts getting dark evening entertainment starts building up.
Presented with a beautiful beaded necklace, we bid goodbye with lots of photos with some moments captured in heart and mind and thanks to the big elephant brain who stores all the memories close to your heart to revisit time and again.
But what I take away today is the uprooting and settling down, learning new skills of survival. Back home had heard from colleagues and friends about partition and refugees and always empathized, as I sat there listening to this family and the tribe’s settlement just a few Kilometers away from the Jungle gate the connection is different.
The Australian Outback way
This is nightmarish but as I fall back on the memories it’s close to my heart. I am locked down in Brisbane and the house lease is over. We are on a search and we find this beautiful house completely made from wood. As we get a round of the property from a chic Australian owner, the entrance has iron cast figurines of huge lizards which I do not notice, but what I do notice is the dot paintings all over the place. They are very artistic, symmetrical, and colorful. In a corner lies a bunch of didgeridoo in different sizes.
I end up staying at the property for the next 2 months before departing to India, but the figurines of lizards on the outer wall and dot painting belonging to the Australian outback and the didgeridoo developed by the aboriginal people a simple wooden tube blown with the lips like a trumpet kept me intrigued.
Until later when visiting Sydney at the central quay running after my daughter to keep pace to catch a ferry, I hear this throaty sound and as I approach it gets louder and louder, in awe I do stop two artists are playing from a long bamboo flute and it sounds like a trumpet and
To read more about my Sydney experiences click here.
As we warmed up to each other she an artist shared her art, love for the outback and fauna, creative figurines of lizards which are common in the Australian outback and the next 2 months were an experience of listening to the instrument and learning the dot painting, sitting on the patio with lizards keeping my back.
My kitty is full and I can keep going on, every journey has indeed enriched me as my tagline says it all … and wish to do it over and over again. It’s transformed me from a tourist into a traveler with my soul into it I love to go slow leaving behind the Rush … Rush of life, thoughts, work, and materials.
Stay tuned to blogs by Varsha Mahore. Enriching lives through travel. Follow Justonewayticket on Instagram and Facebook and do visit www.justonewayticket.in