LACHUNG: Up in the Clouds. Abode in the heaven
Wood crackled into the locally made Chula. The aluminum vessel emanating steam enhances our curiosity. As the lid is picked up, the beautiful sight of world-famous MOMOS captures us. “PEMA” is expertly rolling the next lot, her fingers creatively rhythmically making patterns and she is clad in the beautiful local dress. THE KHO
It’s a modest shack in Lachung. The shelves are lined up with all kinds of beverages, an answer for the outside climate, along with MOMOS and red-hot Kimchi.
Shayo, also known as the river just 100 m away, flows gloriously, milky white, rumbling, the noise is soothing yet fierce, making her presence dominant as we sit savoring CHAI at PEMA’S
It’s just around 5:00 pm and we are back exploring Lachung, after a day well spent at Zero point and Yutang valley, an “experience par excellence”.
Drive from Gangtok
A day earlier, we had driven from Gangtok, with some beautiful landscapes, lunch at home stays, rondevozous with waterfalls, quaint villages, reaching Lachung in pitch dark of the night unaware as to where we are heading yet with the expert stranger of a driver.
As we embark on our modest hotel amidst the towering mountain ranges of the Eastern Himalayas, not that we could see anything but silhouettes, told the story.
We were assured by our hotel, with the bare basic minimum in this hilly terrain, it’s Luxury … and a thought crosses my mind, what about the people who live here for ages, and travelers who have been traveling as the beauty is irresistible and you keep coming back. Few stories of old travelers prove their passion to travel & explore matters, the rest is unknown to them. Go with the flow..
Zero point
Next day morning, we were to travel to the Zero point.
But before that, we ascend the terrace of our Modest yet luxurious hotel and we face the most amazing snow-clad mountains dotted with colorful homes at its foothills. Freshly cultivated fields with tender shoots of the crops sprouting out, making it look like green carpets and adding a dash of vibrancy to the spring season. With the clear skies and clouds hanging high up, the colour palette is just stunning.
Clouds hung very high above the mountain, giving way to the sun rays. From the terrace of our hotel, the view is stunning, breathtaking taking and soul warming. For a traveler, it’s orgasmic, not knowing that as we travel ahead, this view gets better and better.
Zero point and Yutang valley is a sure wonder of nature with towering mountain ranges, Deep valleys, free flowing crystal-clear rivers, as the snow melts the valleys spring up with vegetation in varied hues of green, against the rugged brown and icy backdrop they sure make a picturesque sight and cherry on the cake is the freshest of air… the most intoxicating element.
Survival of the Locals
Today accessible to mankind, they weren’t in earlier days, but were still inhabited, people living there still managed to survive. Accessing all the mountains, valleys, rivers on foot in deep snow along with their animal, who in turn are their best friends and saviors, one can find their possessiveness about their animals.
“Seeing is believing, “the landscape is beautiful beyond imagination, it’s rugged, difficult, and yet so welcoming.
And you question yourself how they do it? Butt the place has an age-old history.
Zero point is the last point where civilians are allowed. Few kilometers ahead we share a border with another country, which means This is The Last Post.
We are at 15300 feet above sea level at the Zero point.. Though just 15 km away from LACHUNG, we have taken an hour or more to reach with many stops to absorb the nature.
This being the spring, snow is melting and the water cascades down to meet the three rivers of the region. They in turn are elegantly flowing, with crystal clear water over sparkling marble stones, you feel the temperatures as you touch the waters.
As the snow melts, life springs, covering the rocks and the earth surface with an orange tinge, intrigued, I get down for a closer look and feel the Velvety moss, and I dig deep to find out, to understand the ecosystem and biodiversity of this snowy region.
I could see the animals grazing on some succulents, fresh and green, and, why not? After six months of frozen land, it’s worth the feast.
The yak herd is jauntily grazing on the meadows covered with tiny purple flowers. The homes around the meadows are stocked with fire, and hens with the babies enjoy the otherwise warm climate, their moves, I would say dance moves almost saying, staying outdoors is a luxury.
The wonders and the splendors of the region are picture perfect and the landscape is engrossing. The air is crisp One gives in to this and to the many such beautiful moments which are addictive and you are fixed to the place. By far zero point and Yutang is a land of Natural wonders and a land of humans surviving in the toughest conditions, with the four-legged giving the humans company. This mystique Splendor of a region attracts botanists and bird lovers all over the world.
As we make our way to marry in the snow, clicking pictures with ho, yummy Maggi, tea, and other beverages, surprisingly on sale at that height, it brings smiles on the face of many travelers.
I on the other hand, am awe of these men and women who start from home at 4:30 am to reach the place, mostly on foot or if luck permits by a shared vehicle,e to earn their livelihood. Survival of the fittest is the MANTRA.
I come back physically to the hotel, but mentally I am reeling in the beauty and the vibe of Zero point and Yunthang and that would stay for a long time.LACHUNG Is here to stay.
It’s early evening, the sun sets pretty early being the EAST, yet dark and we are out on a stroll to explore. The Shayok is seen from a hundred meters, and there we find Pema and her sister-in-law serving the most delicious momos and Maggi.
The heat from the chulha, momos and the green chilies are a complement to the otherwise Chile weather. We spend hours with the two most gorgeous women talking about everything under the sun with a language with no barrier.
We meet visitors who come in as regulars for their meals and are served with warmth with the exchange of daily grapevine, but what was significant, every visitor, if had money, would pay, but it was absolutely alright to pay later whenever possible.
In this place called LACHUNG, I learnt something so significant that money is important, but it’s more important to feed.
They survive together as the Community, the Tourists, and workingmen are their bread givers, but less is more. The warmth stays. The survival instincts in this part of the World are worth admiring, and the main takeaway.y
